Jake’s Steakhouse Is An Uptown Institution
Full disclosure #1: I love going to the bar at Jake’s Steakhouse in Riverdale. It’s a grown-up bar, the kind of bar that encourages a cocktail and conversation with whoever sits next to you. I’ve made quite a few acquaintances at the Jake’s bar as I have sipped a martini, straight up, with a twist. There are simpler joys, but I can’t imagine many.
Now that I’ve disclosed the truth, one may discount my journalistic distance as I recount the many delights of patronizing Jake’s Steakhouse.
Full disclosure #2: I am not an avid carnivore, so perhaps you’ll trust more of what I am about to tell you.
Sitting a mere block away from the 1 train and directly across from the Van Cortlandt Park Parade Grounds, the three-story building with the limestone brick facade stands out from its neighbors on this mixed-use block. And while it’s true that many come for the camaraderie of weekday happy hour, the main event—what makes Jake’s the Bronx establishment it has become—are the steaks. After 18 years in this location, Jake’s has established itself as a premier steakhouse with its own aging processes and signature steaks.
On my very first visit a few years back, I saw the full platter of the “Porterhouse for two” replete with golden curlicues of fried onions and topped with gorgonzola cheese all in a deep, dark port wine reduction bath—Jake’s style, as it’s called. At that moment, all my vegetarian desires abandoned me as I imagined the complexity of textures and tastes each bite of that Porterhouse would offer. Think about it: Almost all five taste elements in a single bite combining the tartness of the cheese, the crispiness of onions, the sweetness of the wine all wrapped around the buttery fat of the perfectly done, medium-rare meat and finished with a bit of char.
Jake’s ages their steaks by using a process called “wet aging.” While many of us have seen the slabs of meat hanging in refrigerated cases in markets or other steakhouses going through the “dry aging” process, wet-aged beef is vacuum-sealed to retain the moisture and allow the enzymes to break down the complex proteins from the inside out. The result is a tender, juicy steak—full of beefy flavor.
But what is Jake’s appeal, and how have they established themselves as “The Bronx steakhouse”? I spoke to Senior Manager Meghan Cawley, who has worked in the restaurant since she was attending college. Now, 17 years later, she spends quite a bit of her life ensuring the quality of the Jake’s dining experience.
“We want all our customers to leave happy,” she says, referring to her co-manager Jimmy Downey and the Jake’s ownership group. The bar, which at the height of happy hour can get quite boisterous, is but one area of the restaurant to enjoy a meal. With tables and booths available on all three levels, a diner can opt for the noise and energy of the first-floor bar or the quieter eating areas of the second and third floors. “We consider our staff family, and we have been working together for many years,” she adds. “I guess that’s how we create the welcome our guests all say they feel.”
Steaks aside, Executive Chef Magdaleno Diaz, who has been at Jake’s since it opened in March 2001, has created an incredibly friendly and comfortable menu that leans toward Italian cuisine. Besides the Porterhouse, Jake’s offers its signature T-bone, filet mignon and shell steak. If you’re not in the mood for steak, lobster tails, beef ribs and lamb are available as well as pasta and chicken dishes, such as Penne ala Vodka and Chicken Francaise. Jake’s strives to have something for everyone to enjoy and savor. And keeping to its Bronx roots, Jake’s diners can choose a slice of S & S cheesecake or Lloyd’s carrot cake to finish off their meal.
Now, full disclosure #3: I am pretty much a lightweight when it comes to meat and potatoes. Along with my martini, I often order a Jake’s Crab Cake, a delicious mound of sweet crab meat served with chipotle and Dijon mustard aioli. I usually follow this with Jake’s half-pound burger, savory and meaty, served on an English muffin and accompanied by crispy, slender fries. Being the aforementioned lightweight, my wife and I share these carnivorous forays. We are always satisfied.
Final disclosure: I’ve only lived in the Bronx for six years, having moved from Brooklyn. While I have been able to adapt to my new home quite well, it has been an adjustment to be around so many true-to-the-bone Yankees fans. Jake’s is doing its part to help me adjust, as fans who produce tickets before or after games receive a 15 percent discount on their meal. While I haven’t changed my fan affiliation from that other New York team, I have had some interesting conversations at the bar regarding the fortunes of both teams. And keeping with the spirit that imbues Jake’s, even in contentious times, these conversations seem to always end with a raised glass and a salute to all. The way grown-ups always do. Simple.
6031 Broadway, The Bronx, NY 10471
